leynos: (Default)
leynos ([personal profile] leynos) wrote2006-04-02 07:11 pm
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Beside the Seaside

I spent yesteday afternoon in North Berwick exploring the town, and, given the time of year, I couldn't have asked for nicer weather for it. The sun shone warmly and a mild cooling breeze blew in from the sea, making the experience all the more pleasant. It made me happy to find that as I walked through the high street and along the beach, I was able to think of nothing but my surroundings. The last thing I wanted was to come to this place and wind up just pouring over the week's worries.

The High Street must do some roaring trade from visitors. I'm impressed that they for the most part resist the urge to take advantage of this by turning the place into a tourist trap ala Edinburgh's old town. There are some genuinely interesting shops lining the street. I didn't see much I wanted to buy, as I think most ornaments would have difficulty finding a home in my cluttered room, but I saw plenty of beautifully crafted pieces and some very attractive paintings. I know where to come now for pretty, non-functional gifts.

When I got to the harbour, the sun chose that exact moment to put in an appearance, and I spent a good half hour just sitting on the harbour wall eating lucky tatties watching the sailing boats circling in the Forth. Definitely the right kind of weather for it. As it should be, the beach was populated by families enjoying the good weather, which children building sandcastles and climbing rocks, whilst their parents relaxed or walked their dogs.

On the way back, I took a different rout round the back of the town centre. This took me through the park, and in an amusing moment, I realized I'd stumbled upon the spot where the local alcoholics hang out. It reminded me of an article I'd read in the Guardian a few weeks ago. After some more wandering about, I caught the train back to Edinburgh

Spring is well and truly here. I even had to remove the lining from my coat. And on such a pleasantly warm evening, it made sense to enjoy an open air curry at the mosque. Afterwards, I went on a little pub crawl in Morningside, since it was felt too good an evening just to go home.

I was served a passable mint julep at Montpeliers, although I was a bit worried when the bartender asked if I wanted crushed ice. (Er... yes.) I get the impression that this place was once classy, but has now slowly had to make consessions to keep up with more profitable establishments in town. What interested me more was the profusion of heat lamps and burners that are now abundant outside the various drinking establishments. An ubiquitous reminder that something subtle has changed, that will most likely never be undone, and people will have to adapt. Not being a habitual smoker, I'm kind of apathetic about the whole thing, but this sight lets me appreciate what a change it will be in so many people's lives.

The Canny Man's is an Edinburgh institution. Or so every second customer at the bar insisted on telling their friends. Personally, I think it's a bit overrated. Certainly, the assortment of junk hanging from the ceiling and every wall is impressive, as is the (ridiculously) extensive selection of single malts behind the bar. The biggest problem is that anything interesting is stupidly over-priced. I thought the bartender was joking at first when he quoted £6 for a Balvenie 12yo, but sure enough, there it was in writing. The atmosphere of the place is also unnerving, feeling like a sleazy central-London lounge, kinda like something out of a Neil Jordan film. I kept expecting Bob Hoskins, in polyester suit, to walk in at any moment and order a Bloody Mary.

Never mind, a couple or six at the Blue Blazer soon put paid to that memory.

Tasting Notes



Rebel Yell (bourbon) - mildly phenolic nose, autumn fruits and a little citrus to the palette, very dry mouth feel.

Poit Dubh 12yo (vatted malt) - malt and grain in the nose, with the grain becoming more apparent with water. Palette of peanut, sesame seed and coriander.

[identity profile] markadm.livejournal.com 2006-04-02 08:14 pm (UTC)(link)
he atmosphere of the place is also unnerving, feeling like a sleazy central-London lounge, kinda like something out of a Neil Jordan film
- really? I love the place. I suppose you have to get used to it...